Looking Foward to that Caribbean Blue

I think everyone is ready for a vacation this time of year... and as I have written, my trip to St Croix was postponed (really cancelled) due to hurricanes. We rallied and rebooked to Belize.  I haven't been there, and it was on my list, so this was a decent alternative. But....


Funny thing is my vacation is just around the corner and another tropical depression has formed... I have my eye on you!  I get on that plane soon - Do not go messing with Belize! 


Happy Thanksgiving Everyone.

Quick Weekend in the Mile High City

For years I traveled regularly to Denver.  The area holds a special place in my travel loving heart.  It is gorgeous country.  So many national parks are nestled into that area, to say nothing about the stunning national forests, the cute mountain towns, the sweeping majesty of the Rockies.  It is a nature lover's dream.  The area is also filled with friends.  Friends, so close that I consider them family, call the area home.  A weekend is never enough to see everyone. Sadly, it was all that I cold fit in the schedule this year.




I have grand plans for visits to Denver and the surrounding area.  I have a list of things I want to see and do even after living there for half a year on a work detail (and traveling there a lot for work). My plan has been to knock something out each time I visited... but it doesn't always work out.  Shame really because I have some goodies on there, and some places that have been on my list for almost a decade (Dinosaur National Monument, Devils Tower, Aspen & Vail, another visit to Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and more).  This trip was not that kind of trip.  This was to visit two amazing friends on incredible journeys; two friends that are a testament to strength and courage (and health insurance).  Longer trips can wait.   I had priorities.  I needed to check in with my mentor/Denver-mom, cancer ass-kicking Wonder Woman Sue and my amazing strongly, athletic, snarky, fun loving, cancer ass-kicking friend, Megan. 


So less than a week after I returned from my Lake Tahoe trip, I was back on a plane.  If you fly into or out of the Rockies, you know that you are in for some turbulence.... and this trip did not disappoint.  Our 3.5 hour flight was extended by over an hour since the plane tried to fly around an epic thunderstorm.  A storm so big I swear I watched lightening dance across the sky for a half hour.  Zeus was fighting with someone up there because huge bolts streaked across the clouds with a vicious frequency that it was almost hypnotic.  We skirted around most of the storm but flew into the edges as we made our approach into Denver and bounced around so much your stomach entered your throat (and no, I don't get motion sick).



After a good night's sleep, I was ready to hit the ground running.  First up - Sue.

Sue and I have a pattern.  We walk through Cherry Creek, the Botanical Gardens, the Art Museum.  She shook things up this time and surprised me with tickets to the Ballet!  Sue and I share a passion for the arts, and she is an active supporter of the Denver Arts community, but heading downtown is not what we typically do... but she is full of surprises. The Colorado Ballet was staging a production of Dracula - perfect for that time of year.  I have yet to see it performed.  This was a treat to say the least. It had been a year since I have seen a proper ballet and even longer since I patronized the Colorado Ballet Company. 

Before the big event, we headed into the LODO district to share some food and catch up.  Being a beautiful day, we sat outside... and we treated to sound checks for the Beer Festival.  We could barely head each other most of the time.  We rushed through stories in between instruments and laughed because what else could be do.  It is always a memorable date with Sue. 

After a wonderful time watching a sensual, sexy, hauntingly beautiful performance of Dracula, we wandered a bit to find a place for a drink and conversation!  This time, no sound checks!  And when she was ready, I brought her home and headed out to Golden to Megan.

I arrived in time for dinner with the family and some more catch up conversation.  We spent the next day together outside.  We went for a walk down along the river, we took pictures of butterflies, and soaked in the sun.  Our imaginary game of baseball with her son was parlayed into a true game of 1-on-1 whiffle ball that evening. 

The family took me to Red Rocks Amphitheatre, not for a show, but just to appreciate its beauty... Red Rocks has been on my list for a long while, I think since I got that Dave Mathews CD - Live at Red Rocks.  The sound was amazing.  And I do love an outdoor concert.  And while there was no concert there, we were treated to a woman playing her cello.  It was heavenly. 

After hoofing the endless stairs, enjoying the music and wandering the museum, I was surprised with a trip to the famed Morison buffalo herd.  They were close to the viewing area, so I got to soak up some prime American West scenery!  I really wanted to capture that perfect shot of the fall leaves with the mountains and bison... I tried!  I was happy with this sweeping vista.

Back home, the family cooked for me while I got to act like a kid with the kid!  We danced to Ricky Martin while we played with Legos.  Can I get paid to do this all the time?

Gorgeous weather did the gold ole' Denver twist and turned on me though.  After 2 days of beautiful 70 degree days, a blizzard rolled into town that evening and by the next morning it was a sea of white.  Crazy storms coming and going .... that is Denver. 

And that was a weekend visiting 2 very important people.  They kicked cancer's ass and are living their lives to the fullest.  I love them both!  Until next year... I swear I will stay longer!  I swear! 

Don't Forget the Caribbean/Replacement Vacation Planning

Anyone that has followed the news (really just been paying attention at all), knows that the Caribbean was decimated by Hurricanes Irma and Maria.  And when I say decimated, that is not Jersey exaggeration... island nations have been completely ripped apart.  People lost everything!  Island's environments were laid bare.  It is a tragedy of epic proportions. 


[I encourage any reader here to think about these communities and reach into their pocket.  There are so many charities, so many ways to help.  Some focus on specific islands.  Some on specific communities.  Some on specific issues. Whatever you do - HELP!]


Due to hurricane devastation, my much-anticipated trip to St Croix was cancelled.  There was no way to avoid this.  This trip was to mark the 100th anniversary of the US Virgin Islands becoming part of the United States.  I had planned a week exploring the towns, the environment- I booked a food tour, a hike, a kayak tour, a snorkeling adventure and more.  I have been planning this trip for a long time.

Yet, my loss in losing my vacation is but a frustration and inconvenience.  For those islands, this marks the start of a long journey back. They have a lot of work to do.  We must not forget them and their plight!   I will visit when they are ready.  These islands that depend on tourist jobs will need many travelers to make the decision to come back.  Until then, I will be sending assistance in various forms.  I sent money to organizations to provide immediate relief  from the Red Cross and the Humane Society to Ricky Martin's Fund for Puerto Rico, Global Giving for Puerto Rico.  I also adopted a family through http://www.adoptafamilyusvi.com/  In the box, we packed up emergency supplies like bug spray, mosquito nets, water filters, flashlights, tarps, snacks, clothes, towels, toiletries, first aid kits and more.

This was the best way I could think to help. And through various other amazon lists, you can add more to shipments... like toothbrushes and paste!  When everything is lost, everything is needed.  Dig deep people!

I will continue helping ...but I also need a vacation!  After looking at options and playing with plans in various locales... we tried the Groupon route again.  Options in the Caribbean are very limited (obviously).  But there are a few deals out there in Central America.  After looking at our last minute options, we decided on Belize! 

The more I think about it, the more excited I get.  Belize was on my wish list.  I wanted to see the tropical rain forest. I have head wonderful things about the beaches. People have told me how gorgeous the country is, and that it should be on my short list.  The idea of Belize was always out there, but I never looked into it more than that.  It was just a name on my list.  But there was Groupon, with a shiny deal that looked amazing.

But after our hotel fiasco in Mexico, I needed to do more due diligence.  I looked at the resort on-line; I read reviews on various travel sites (not just Groupon).  I priced out airfare to Belize City and then fare to Dangagria.  And then I bit the bullet.  We are headed to Belize's Yok Ha Resort for 4 nights!  I might tack on a night in Belize City too.

Where we are headed offers me the chance to headed into a Jaguar Sanctuary!  We could also see more Mayan ruins!  My camera is in for a new workout. They offer cave tubing. Kayaking. Snorkeling.  Hiking.  There is a lot to plan, but the Groupon is purchased.... fingers crossed I can use some United miles!

The plan is to head to Belize in early December.  It may not be a week in St Croix, but it is still something new... and I love exploring new places!

Two days In the Maryland Panhandle

When you think of states with panhandles, you can easily name Florida, Oklahoma, Texas, Idaho, but there is one much closer to home... Maryland.  I have never been into the Maryland panhandle - it is close, but not too close...a 3.5 hour drive.  It warrants some planning.  And after my best friend suggested I check out Deep Creek Lake, on the western edge of the panhandle months ago, its been on my list. 




Enter a Labor Day that happened upon us way too quickly and I did not have anything planned.  The weather was cold and stormy on Saturday but it was supposed to clear up.  We did not want to let that last bit of summer slip by.  We had to do something.  After some quick googling, I found a last minute room for a great rate in Deep Creek for Sunday night... our short road trip was planned.  We would figure things out along the way, and knew there was bound to be enough to keep us occupied for a 2 days... and we were right.


I texted my best friend Lesley to tell her I was finally going and she got back to me immediately with ideas from a friend.  She may run a successful website on the Pacific NW but she has contacts everywhere.  Her friend gave us ideas for all kinds of food & drink and many activities.  We were only going to be there for 2 days and I wanted to make the most of our time.  A local is always a great resource - ones you know, or ones you befriend along the way! 


Deep Creek Lake is not the kind of lake community I grew up visiting in northern New Jersey.  What we saw as soon as we got there looked more akin many fancy shore communities with houses on the water trying desperately to be bigger and grander than the next.  There was development all over the lake.  In fact the only public access to the water is through the state park - Deep Creek Lake State Park.  We drove past homes with secondary homes (the mother-in-law house) and found out way through winding roads to get to the lake.  Outside on the water, my stubborn streak prevailed as we walked on the beach and jetties, dipped toes in the cold waters and braved the winds on this day in the mid 50's!  Summer was obviously lost (Persephone must have went back to Hades early)... but the sun was out.  We stayed for a few hours to enjoy the reflections and pretend we went to the beach over labor day.  After we had enough, we headed indoors to the Nature Center to learn about the lake's ecology (I learned a new term for the lake's water cycle - the thermocline is the barrier between the upper and lower water layers that facilitates turnover)!


After giving up we headed to a late lunch/early dinner at Mountain State Brewery... on my list of places to check out from my friend's friend, we were optimistic.  Driving away from the lake and into the rolling fills of farms, we found the small, and incredibly busy, brewery wafting smells of food into the parking area.  This rustic local favorite was practically full at 4pm - a great sign.  Our waitress helped up pick out an unique pizza of Thai chicken and John got himself a flight of their specialties.  We chowed down on a gigantic medium pizza and decided dinner was not needed (damn was that a big pie).  Everything was yummy (and warm) in this joint and we defrosted enough to venture out again.


Where did we go now... well to the ski resort, of course.  The Wisp was bustling with people, and we know something was going on!  That something was FUN.  They had an adventure course set up for kids and other for adults.  There was a toboggan ride down the slopes and you could ride the ski lift up to come down the mountain yourself (leg-power).  We settled on tickets for the toboggan cuz, hello, it was a roller coaster you could control yourself.  Yep!  You were put in a toboggan, and pulled up the mountain... and then when you were released on the tracks, you had the ability to control your own speed!  WOOHOO.  I hooted and hollered like a kid and let my yellow ride fly... well I did until I saw signs asking us to break around some turns.  When we both disembarked, we were ready to go again! 


After we left the Wisp, we checked into our hotel (there was a reason we got a room so late in the game - ick) and headed out for a rematch on the miniature golf course.  What happens when 2 competitive people play a silly game of mini-golf.... well, putts are taken seriously and I get to say I WIN!  HA!  A hole in one baby!  The course was a blast with truly unique water features you had to play through and some serious usage of hills.  Afterwards, we headed to the arcade for a wall sized version of Space Invaders (with different rules from my Atari version).  We bounced from air hockey to ski-ball to silly guessing games and gifted random kids in the arcade our tickets won... we did not need an eraser, and we made some people smile.  Who says you have to grow up?  (I am still a Toys R Us kid at heart).


After this mad-Karate Kid styled date, we headed to the Deep Creek Creamery - the hottest ticket in town.  Because even though the temperatures never got above 55 degrees, the line for ice cream was literally down the street.  We stood in line, talked to locals and got some creamy goodness that we ate while overlooking a full moon over the lake.  It was a beautiful scene. 


The next morning, Demeter (ye, I do love throwing in the Greek Gods) decided that we could have some warmer weather... and we were able to get on the water... finally.  We booked a lake tour on a pontoon.  And I was stuck singing that Little Big  Town song all day because of it.  With an afternoon tour planned, we headed out for a downhome local breakfast.... and according to our list, Sandy's was where we wanted to be.  So we drove past the sprawling lake looking for the local dive... eventually we found the rehabbed gas station, that was home to this local fav.  We ate at the counter and marveled with the crowds. Everyone ordered a cinnamon bun, so who were we to say no- splitting it was almost not fair - warm and gooey.  For our meals, we discovered the blueberry pancakes were the way to go.  Full, we headed back to the lake. 


After lollygagging for almost 2 hours (we were early and there is not much to do in the area) we finally made our way onto the Pontoon.  And on the water for almost an hour and a half was the highlight of the trip.  The day was warm, the sun was out and our guide was a local whom was relocating the next day... he waxed nostalgic as he toured the lake.  We explored some of his favorite spots, visiting secluded arms of this amoebous lake and insanely elaborate mansions. The tour gave us a better appreciation of the grandeur of the lake.  It is large!  In fact , the lake covers 3900 acres - making it the largest lake in Maryland .  It is called Deep Creek Lake, not for being the deepest in Maryland ( it's deepest point is only 75 feet near the dam), but for the name of one of its feeding sources.  The lake gets its water from a series of creeks in the area - no major river, no underground water source.  Deep Creek can get cold - ice goes 18 inches down in the right conditions.  The lake was created in 1925 by the Youghiogheny Electric Company, bought by Pennsylvania Electric in 1942 and is now owned by Maryland!

After our tour, our guide gave us a great recommendation for a deli - we grabbed sandwiches and headed out to Swallow Falls State Park.   Another of my friend friend's great recommendations.  Swallow Falls is said to be one of the prettiest state parks in Maryland. Just about every person we spoke to told us not to miss it, so we knew we were in for a treat.  Once in the park, we sat in the giant gazebo to eat our delicious sandwiches and fuel up... camera at the ready, I was hopping for adventure.  The trail loop to 4 falls was under 2 miles.  You could add to the mileage by taking arms off the main line to get closer or different perspectives.  My camera was busy photographing the  water falling over bridal veils, cascades, and horsetail falls.  I pointed out basic geology to John - each time we go out he gets science lessons - this time in erosion and stratification.  (I need to whip out the old college texts soon and brush up on some lessons myself).  The forest around the falls is hemlock... I am familiar with Hemlock forests, as I grew up near large ones in NJ... The forest was badly damaged by Superstorm Sandy, and it provided a great way to point out forest regeneration. Hemlock forests are unique in that they create their own mini-climates... they can lower the standing temperatures up to 10 degrees - so often you see flora in the area unlike any other.  Hemlocks and their shallow roots also help to keep the air moist... the area is ripe for fungus, mushrooms, lichens and mosses.  And all over we spotted some amazing shrooms.  They had plenty to do, breaking down trees felled by the storm.   Plenty of locals on the trail told us that the falls were low, but it didn't matter - the hike and the forest were wonderful.  Nature can take your breathe away if your let her!

After the hike and science lessons it was time to head back to DC.  On the way home, we took the scenic route through West Virginia (we were so close), and were treated to a sherbet colored sunset over the valleys between the Appalachian Mountains and views of wind farms stirring in the steady winds persistent through the area. 

With a trip full of beauty and fun, we will be sure to keep this place on our list for local get-aways when I need to see something more than traffic jams. 

Finally Made It to Mexico

Groupon Travel is the most tempting thing out there.  I look at the listings and just itch to click. On the site, I see everything from opportunities stateside, the Caribbean, Central America, Europe and even dream trips on African Safaris, Australia... it's crazy.  And sometimes I think it's unrealistic... If you have ever been on Groupon, you know that some trips offer extraordinary discounts. Some of the deals seem almost too good to pass up.  And then there is that count down clock! It is all designed for temptation.  I wanted to test it out... but, I did not want to be completely at the mercy of the discount gods if it turned into a nightmare. I figured my best bet was somewhere outside where I could work around the system easily if it didn't work out - somewhere like the Caribbean or our neighbor to the South, Mexico.  I have never been to Mexico and a trip was long over due.  In Groupon, I did not want anything that included airfare because those deals scare me - I know I would be stuck in a middle seat, in the back of the plane, on some ridiculous low cost carrier that charges for air.  Instead, we found a "too good to be true" deal on an all inclusive hotel in Cancun for just under $200/night!  Not knowing what to expect, I did not want to stay too long, but wanted to be there long enough to take in a new area, so I settled on 4 nights.  Woohoo, my first trip to Cancun - only 25 years late for high school spring break!

So, excited for our trip, I researched options for tours and fun.  As enticing as sitting for days on a sugar white beach sounds, I did not think that was the best use of my money... I wanted to explore... I could sit on a beach at home.  Much to the chagrin of my boyfriend, I planned stuff everyday (all 3 full days there). Of course I wanted to relax too, so the days were not full days.  The activities picked gave us at least a half day at the hotel beach.  We were going to make the most of this trip. 

Days 2&3 - Art, Alpacas, Lavendar, Parks, Orcas & Yachts in the San Juan Islands - Art, Alpacas, Lavendar, Orcas and Yachts



Historical Society
Topographical Interactive Map
San Juan Island

(Continuing my San Juan Island Trip in July 2017)

We hit the ground running Monday, starting with an interview with  town/island leader, Barbara Marrett, over an amazing Breakfast. (Seriously, I am going to have to try and recreate the baked eggs in tomato we ate at  Cynthia’s Bistro).  We talked about island life, the tight knit community, and their ties to the orcas and the Salish Sea.  It's hard to deny the beauty of the area that just draws you in, and her story reflected that pull.  I have always been curious about small town island living and what brings people there, and she let us pepper her with questions about Friday Harbor's growth and laid back nature, the (sometimes) hassle of being cut off from the mainland, and her history that brought her to the island.

After our breakfast education we were handed off to another amazing town leader - the executive Director of the Whale Museum, Jenny Atkinson.  She spoke to us for hours about the orcas and other whales that visit the Sound. Adding to what we learned the evening before from Maya's Legacy (whale watching tour), we were getting a crash course in the local ecosystem.  She spoke passionately about the resident orca pod and how connected people on the island are to it. The reason the whale museum started naming the orca's was the fact that locals are able to identify so many since the people and orcas grow up together and these orcas are often found near the island coast line. Islanders are able to pinpoint births and deaths in the pod since they are such a regular site around the San Juans.  Sadly, they numbers have plummeted.  The Whale Museum  mission is education everyone they can on the majesty of these mammals. After our talk, we were given a tour of the museum, and next thing we knew we were well past noon and well past the schedule that Lesley had made for us to maximize our time.  So, after some purchases (I had to adopt a whale to support their mission), we headed out.

Before we left Friday Harbor and drove into the heart of the island, we wanted to stop by the Art Museum.  Although we had planned for the Art Museum on Monday before our ferry, we found out it would be closed... quick schedule tweak and we made it.  The museum is small!  Really 2 main rooms.  It was hosting an exhibit on native masks  - masks from private collectors.  Much of this stuff was never seen in public.  And it was glorious.  These pieces tell stories but the museum let them speak for themselves - you had to pull up piece information on your smart phone using your scanner!  It was a smart way to show these pieces.

 

The BIG Event of the Year - I Was There

I planned this trip to Nashville over a year ago.  The Washington Post published an article asking "where will you be?" and it left me wondering "where."  So, I started researching over a year ago for this one day - August 21st. 

Nashville from the Cumberland River

After talking it over with my boyfriend, we started looking out west in Wyoming and quickly found out that even a year in advance, we were too late to the party.  Rooms were booked in the path of totality.  This was beyond frustrating - I wanted to be ahead of the curve and instead I was playing catch up.  So, out came that Washington Post map and we looked at areas all over the west.  With the path cutting from Oregon to South Caroline, we had options - or so we thought.  Everywhere we looked was booked.  So, we gave up on our western wishes and started looking at alternatives.  We already knew that Charleston would be out as a option since we visited last year AND the summer weather runs a higher risk of storms.  In the center of the country, a few mid-western cities had options - St Louis, Kansas City, Nashville... I had been to all of them but John had not.   Nashville seemed like the best option.  He really wanted to visit and my last trip there was over 10 years ago. It was the biggest major city on the path.  When I found a room with a decent rate in the burbs of Nashville, and I locked that in immediately.  With rooms booking around $700-$800/night, finding something under $150 was a treasure.  Decision made!

 

Months in advance, I purchased our solar goggles (not paper glasses) and I started shopping for camera necessities.  I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into trying to photograph this event.  I am much more of a nature photographer and this was beyond my area of knowledge... so out came the books, the research and lots of questioning others.... I ended up "wishing" for telephoto lenses for my mirrorless camera (wishes not granted), purchasing a fancy tall tripod and some new filters for the telephoto in my possession.  I was not going to wait until the last minute.

The Hermitage

I also wanted to plan the trip for fun outside of the main event.  Price gouging was already underway a year in advance.  This meant we needed to lock things down, but after looking at the airline prices, and fuming over the prices (of over $700/person), we decided to drive to Nashville.  This would give us more flexibility and add to our mobility in the city.

Flash forward a year, with an ambitious itinerary laid out, we left for Tennessee on a Friday afternoon, well ahead of the crowds... or so we thought. After a night in Knoxville, we arrived at the Hermitage to insane crowds.  People were parking in the grass fields.  As the afternoon temperatures soared, the line to view Andrew Jackson's house kept growing.  It was here, that we heard for the first time that Nashville was unprepared for the crowds of the weekend.  We waited for over 1.5 hours to walk through the home; afterwards, I walked some of the grounds, before we both retreated to the air conditioned museum.  But these lines meant that our plan to visit Belle Meade had to be scrapped.  We had enough time to make it to Brentwood, check into the hotel, change and head into the city for our dinner cruise. 

Day 1 - Bucket List Trip - San Juan Islands

We landed in Friday Harbor on Sunday morning.  Immediately, we left the ferry and made our way to the first of many interviews my friend would be conducting while on the island.  Instead of sitting at the table quietly, she lets me flex my skills and ask questions.  When she plans these trips, she fills our time with stuff I love (and she loves too), so these interviews are great ways to learn more from experts first-hand.  This trip, the interview queue was filled with goodies – the historical society, the Whale Museum, a local town councilman, a kayak guide and a whale watching tour captain. 

 

After some breakfast and the first interview, we headed to the “American Camp” side of the island.  American Camp is actually what it sounds like – a place where troops  stayed and trained.  American camp was on the southern tip of the island – some of the most inhospitable land on the rock.  Meanwhile, the English camp set up a community on the north western side of the island.  Why?  They were waiting out a conflict (almost war) over a pig! Yep – you read that correctly too.  When the maps were drawn during westward expansion, the San Juan archipelago was never taken into consideration.  England considered it part of Canada since Vancouver Island is right there and the official border line dipped around its southern point, but the growing United States viewed it as their territory… so residents from both sides lived there.  A whole whopping 35 of them.  And then came a fight about a pig eating in someone’s garden.  An American shot an English pig.  We almost went to war!   A compromise was reached where the fighting would wait, troops would occupy the island for both sides until a resolution could occur.  So 200 troops from each side came to the island.  The British claimed a protected inlet that afforded them easy access to calm waters, wood, and deep soil.  They built a community so rich that people did not want to leave; their traditions, such as the holiday balls continue today.  Conversely, the American side was exposed, pest ridden and the conditions were miserable.  Obviously, the United States ended up with the islands, but the British won over the local’s hearts.  Today, you can see Canada wave that British flag from someone’s front door (not really, but it’s a short ferry ride to Victoria).

Back to the National Park visit (really the National Historical Park)….



South Beach

Cattle Point

I was still seriously sick.  Miserable was more like it.  I had all the symptoms Nyquil was famous for… sniffling, sneezing, coughing, aching… but I was not resting.  I wanted to see stuff.  Lesley had been working on this trip for months.  I wanted to rally.  So we started slowly, with walks along gorgeous Cattle Point and  South Beach, and holy moly, even in this protected area are there so many logs of driftwood.  We walked some of the beach looking at some awesome forts people made from the wood before we headed over to the lagoon area.  I had a bright idea that I could do some walking.

The plan was to walk the trail to Jakles Lagoon - it was a mile in and a mile out.  Being that I felt awful, I thought that was a good way to get my feet moving and not completely pass out.  So off we went, and we walked... and walked some more.  We laughed as a bald eagle soared over our heads, and I hacked by part of my lungs every time we walked up the slightest hill.   And we walked much more than a mile.  When we finally saw a trail marker sign for Third lagoon, we knew we missed a turn somewhere.  But that misstep turned into a glorious hike (if not for my incessant hacking).  We walked through temperate rainforest, and then out to the burnt exposed fields of the southern edges, and back into the forest to see lagoons filled with logs.   What was supposed to be a 2 mile easy walk turned into a 4 mile hike.  I was sweaty and thirsty and in desperate need of a shower... but before we could head to  our tiny (miniscule) hotel room, we had to hit up the National Park visitor's center, so I could get postcards, magnets, and check out the park museum (it was there we watched the informative park video about the war over a pig).

After getting cleaned up (and making sure we were presentable again), we went back to the docks for an amazing evening with Maya's Legacy.  We were going Whale Watching on a small tour - there were only 14 of us, and this boat was the best thing I had ever ridden for whale watching.  Small, fast, smooth and LOTS OF WINDOWS and SPACE.  If you have ever been shoveled out of the way on a tour so someone can get to the bow of the boat to see, you know what I am talking about.  Well, Maya's took care of all that.  Space on the bow and stern, and the cabin's windows all raise up.  You have a 360 degree view all the time.  Anyway, this boat was built for speed, and good thing too because the crew got word that the orcas were in Canadian waters about 45 minutes away. 

Off we went through some of the most beautiful scenery you can dream up for the Pacific NW.  And then, there they were... 5 orcas... a family... hunting!  We saw a mom, a few of her children ranging in age and a visiting male, and he was massive.  We watched for almost a half an hour.  Our guides we fantastic!  They were full of information - talking about natural behaviors we witnessed, talking about the familial bonds, their relationship within the great community.  We learned about the resident pod of orcas versus the transient pod (that we were witnessing).  We talked of food and the greater ecosystem.  Our captain, who serves as President of the Pacific Whale Watch Association, spoke to us about the deeply declining salmon stocks, and how undamming Pacific NW dams could help the resident pod.  Heck - I even learned a few things I didn't know about these majestic animals.  The crew has so much respect for them, and this was evidenced by them never calling them killer whales (so much wrong with that term - they are not whales, they are related to dolphins... but I digress)

After several hours of eco-bliss, we were back on land and starved.  Luckily one lone sports bar was open to feed us because we had not eaten since breakfast when we docked, otherwise it was going to be a granola night.  We chowed down on BLTs and nachos, lots of water and looked over our pictures.  It was an amazing first day.  We headed back to our tinny tiny room and crashed hard.  We had another big day ahead of us. 

12 days at Sea, 5 Islands and Some Big Apple Fun

This was it, my last trip of the year and it was a HUGE one... it was going to be my longest cruise ever and it was taking me to a bunch of new places.  To say I was excited would be putting it mildly.  Things seemed to be lining up nicely; I planned a great evening out with my city friend to see the limited run of Sweet Charity, I was coming in early to squeeze in another show that day, I had a great room not too far from the train station, my train was on time and the weather was holding out... I was all set for my cruise out of New York... ummmm, cruise out of Brooklyn.  (Note to Cunard:  you should differentiate these boroughs... they are not the same place and it can take an hour to get from Manhattan to Brooklyn, just saying).

After I rolled my bags through the streets of New York for a few blocks, I quickly checked into the Element, grateful I didn't stay deeper into midtown... I was weighed down in luggage (I was going away for 2 weeks on a fancy boat and need everything), so my arms and back were relieved to find the hotel. I looked worse than Millie moving into the city, just ready for a room and the Element checked me right hours early!  Woohoo for SPG status!  After resting up and re-bundling up, I headed for TKTS not really worrying about scoring tickets to my intended show target, Holiday Inn... I had no idea the city would be this packed on a weekday ... but there I was at the booth, getting the last ticket to the show.  Phew!  I was lucky.  So, off to Studio 54 I went, to the most uncomfortable seats in all of the theatre district for anyone over 5'2".  The theater itself is gorgeous, and even had a tree in the lobby, but those seats leave no space for longer legs... I am sure the people in front of me don't appreciate my knee in their back anymore than I appreciate the tension either.  I ended up shifting and squirming through act one, hoping for intermission to stretch.  The seats even made it difficult for me to toe-tap my way through the climatic dance numbers (the whole reason I went)... if you saw the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, you know I was waiting for the jump rope garland routine... it just is not as much fun watching people dance their hearts out when your knees are killing you.  But I might just have to rewatch that routine a few dozen times to see all the tricks on each rope - there was a LOT going on! 

I had no such issues in the small Pershing Square Signature Theatre, off Broadway to see the 50th Anniversary production of Sweet Charity!  These tickets were hard to come by, and you understood why when you stepped into the tiny theatre.  We were 3rd row - you could see spit flying from the casts' mouths, you could step on the stage and dance with them... (temptation was killing me).  I make no secret that I love Sutton Foster... I think she is the greatest thing to come off Broadway in my generation.  A triple threat and she doesn't just dance, but she owns the stage. 

This production allowed us to see her charisma, mannerisms, charm, wit and flash up close. 

This small production stripped down and laid bare the hurt and humiliation Charity faces and you watched it all play across Sutton's face... you just wanted to give her a hug.  You wanted to tell her it would be okay, but you knew it wouldn't because even though "If My Friend's Could See Me Now" is funny and playful, even silliest number in the show, it showed just how desperate and sad, lonely and vulnerable Charity is.. this production just plain broke my heart in a million pieces (and ignited feminist ire as her last suitor talked about how she wasn't pure enough for him.) 

What a treat to share this intimate theater experience with a good friend and that amazing cast.    We headed off to dinner and raved to Oovina's staff about our amazing evening.  we were the only ones eating out that late on a Wednesday - we had the place to ourselves. The place was lit up to create an almost theatrical setting, with silver grape vines above our heads, purple floor lights and sleek settings.  And the food was scrumptious - we tried a little of a lot! Amazing food, amazing company, amazing last day on land! 

Cruise Day!  I scrambled to pull myself together and headed off to Brooklyn.  I was meeting friends at the terminal, so I was on my own for a while... I worked my way through the endless lines, waiting rooms and finally into the boat... when you have 2 weeks worth of clothes and 4 formal gowns (told you it was a fancy boat), you have a lot to unpack.  I wanted to settle in and get things up and out of the way before my friend and their "almost" 2 year old made it into the room.  It's a good thing I got things somewhat organized because it went crazy almost immediately.

I will say it, this was a cursed cruise.  I truly felt for the captain and crew... for the families... for my friends.  Before I get to my good stuff - let me just say that a cruise that starts with a likely death (woman overboard on night 1), a couple's so savage breakup that they defy customs and leave the ship at port never to return on 2 different islands, a fire, racist and ignorant comments, and a gang of unruly teens stealing stuff and playing pranks just might be cursed... I don't think that this is what anyway wanted on the Queen Mary 2's holiday voyage (if ever).  It was truly a horror story at times. Me, I let my Jersey Girl flag wave boldly, I was not having any of this craziness... I called out horrible people that made comments about kids, ethnicities, and classist behavior.  I was not going to tolerate being told to move because someone thought I was loud, the kid was loud or whatever else bothered their sensibilities.  It was nauseating how nasty some people could be... so I kept myself busy.  On days that we spent at sea, my friends and I played trivia, lots of trivia. We visited the planetarium (yeah, they had one on the boat).  Attended lectures from the college professors brought aboard (Caribbean history, pirates and Broadway).  I tried my hand at Bingo 3 times!  Went to almost every entertainment performance - seeing the boat performers, and special guests (including London stage star Ruthie Henshall).  We hung out on deck/at the pools where the little munchkin liked getting into the water.  (I am not mentioning the food because it was horrible).  It was a lot of relaxing time... And I was ready for the islands. 

Five Islands.  Lots to see.  And I had plans for each of them.  The first day I hit the ground running - St Maarten!  I was off on a hike, up the highest peak to see some views and a hike down.  And it rained... oh yes, it rained.  They warned us the trail was muddy and slippery... and it was.  The walking sticks provided (that I wanted to turn down),

were, in fact, handy.  I made my way to the back of the pack so I could hang back and snap some pictures... our guide could not identify many of the features we were seeing and my eyes needed time to scan.  Otherwise, I would have missed sights like the snail, the spiders and the incredible trees!  I was so busy taking pictures I did not notice that my lens cap fell off my camera's attachment, so by the time I made it down the island, I was capless and had no idea where to look.  Good thing the tour dropped me off in Phillipsburg where I was able to replace it in one of the camera shops in town. Turns out that Philipsburg was the largest Caribbean city we were visiting (until St Thomas, and even then I think its bigger than Charlotte Amalie).  There were endless stores peddling diamonds; in fact almost every island we visited peddled diamonds (it was horrible).  In  Philipsburg there was at least some diversity of shops filled with textiles, local crafts, boutiques, and liquor.  I was able to find some Larimer, my lens cap, get some food, take some pics of colorful island bungalows and the beach - a great way to cap off a wonderful hike.  This was a great start.

It's Beginning To Look A Lot Like Christmas (In The Islands)

This is it!  I leave for New York in less than a day... by this time Thursday, I will be on the Queen Mary 2 for a holiday unlike any I have ever had... this year I will be spending Christmas through New Years on a cruise through the Caribbean.


I start off tomorrow running - Amtrak to NYC to the hotel to dump my bags and then off to a show.  I need some wintery weather in my holiday season, so I have my sites on the Irving Berlin musical, Holiday Inn for a matinee.  Then a friend is meeting me for dinner, some wandering around and an evening with Sutton Foster in the 50th Anniversary of Sweet Charity. 


Then Thursday, off to Brooklyn to hop on the boat!  Now - when a cruise says it is out of New York, I expect it to be out of the city.... not an hour away.  I am not looking forward to that taxi ride.  But after that it is 3 days of relaxation, 5 days of power touring, and then 3 more days of relaxation before I am back to the grind.


On tap?  First island is St Maarten where I will be hiking at Loterie Farm to get a glimpse of the island from its highest point, Pic Paradis.  The next day in Tortola, I am looking forward to seeing "one of the most unique features in the Caribbean" - Virgin Gorda.  This special island is known for huge rock formations - volcanic boulders piled on top of each other and form small grottos and pools, which contrast with the pure white sand.  The pictures should be fabulous here.  Day 3 brings me to Dominica, one of the last unspoiled islands in the Caribbean; here I will be traveling via open air 4x4 (a la Jurassic Park) to see Morne Bruce for views, wind through the mountains to Wotten Waven Sulphur Springs to see volcanic activity to the rainforest to Ti Tou Gorge.  More great photographic opportunities await on this tour.  Day 4 I take a "chill" day and hop the St Kitts Railway to watch coastline, farmland and villages roll by on this open air rail.  Our last day island hopping brings us to the only island I have visited on this itinerary, St Thomas... here I will be swimming with the sea turtles, if they show up.  I hope that the waterproof bag I have for my phone holds up (it worked great in Iceland)... I want some underwater shots and I never got myself a camera for that purpose.


Fingers crossed for good weather.  I hope to post some great shots on Instagram along the way... and I will post once I return.  Happy Holidays everyone! 

We Swear We Had That Trip Planned BEFORE The Election

Best Friends on an Adventure

My best friend and I planned a trip to Canada for her birthday.  She lives outside of Seattle, and after several visits to see her, we explored Seattle to death.  So, we ventured to Olympic National Park one year.  Last December we visited Vancouver Canada.  This year, the plan was Victoria, the capital of British Columbia.  When we planned it, we did not consciously make the decision to plan around the election, nor did we know how it was going to turn out... so imagine 2 vocal Hillary supporters now headed to Canada the weekend after the election.  It was comical.  It was sad.  And it was a good break for the craziness going on at home.




Honestly, I did not know much about Victoria before this trip.  I did not know it was the capital of British Columbia.  I did not know that it was heavily British influenced.  And I did not know that it was so small.  I was able to guess about its greenery and weather from our trip to Vancouver.  Locals swear it does not rain as much there as it does in Vancouver, but the weather report said it would be dreary.  We were also told to plan for a fancy city, that with its European influence, that we had to dress the part.  So, packing for this trip was a nightmare.  We looked like we were moving in!






My bestie did all of the planning this time around.  I can't tell you how amazing that felt - normally I am the planner. But she looked into everything and made all the arrangements.  I got to relax for the ride and just enjoy.  She is not just a planner but a serious regional blogger.  She runs a successful site - WhatsUpNW.com - that highlights things to do and see in the Pacific Northwest.  And with this, her first trip to Victoria, she reached out her feelers and got us incredible access to some fun things to do.  So, heading in, we had arrangements for museums and food.  Our whole trip will be reviewed on that site, in detail... seriously, check it out! 

Olympic Mountains from the
Straits of Juan de Luca



Harbor and Parliament



So our trip began with a 2 hour road trip to the land of Twilight fame - Port Angeles.  How can anyone plugged into pop culture not think of that series when in that region, yet alone a place that plays a specific part in the lore... so, I warned my friend to watch out for sparkly vampires and giant werewolves as we drove along the edges of Olympic National Park to get to our ferry.  Alas, the sun was never out to test strangers with a sparkle view, but we did pass several locations for the local Native American reservation along the way. [I should make a note that I am not a huge fan of this series but while on a road trip, stuck in bridge traffic, it passes the time.]   The town itself is a gateway area - filled with souvenir shops, restaurants, pubs, motels and other necessities around a ferry line and outside a park.  We didn't have much time to wander, but we found a quaint place for something warm to drink, and to buy another warm hat (it was freezing that day).  Once on the boat, it was smooth sailing on the Straits of Juan de Luca to Victoria.  The light drizzle and low hanging clouds made from some gorgeous scenery as we pulled away from the States. 

Fountain in front of Parliament

Once we docked in Victoria, our AirBNB host picked us up, drove us to her condo while giving us a quick overview of the city streets.  We stayed on the fringe of OldTown/Downtown in an adorable condo, that was perfect for our weekend. It allowed us to dump our bags and hit the streets.  We headed directly to the iconic harbor (yes, where we just came from). 



Veterans' Memorial



The City lights up the waterfront so that it looks like something out of a Disney Park.  It is simply stunning and obviously the heart of downtown.  The main tourist street - Government Street branches off from the harbor; harbor cruises and whale watching tours dock there, the major city sites are within a few blocks.  It is a hub.  And like a moth to a flame, we headed right to it, to stare at the pretty lights all around the area and explore the grounds.  We found Veteran's Memorial surrounded by flowers for Remembrance Day - both of us saps, we teared up at the beautiful words on the plaque  "To Our Glorious Dead - "They died the noblest death a man may die, fighting for god, and right and liberty, and such a death is immortality" listing the World Wars, Korea, and Afghanistan.  We took pictures by the Native Canadian totem pole and worked our way through the crowd staring into the lit fountain.  The whole area was packed with people trying to get that postcard worthy shot of iconic Victoria. 

Caves, Trails, History and Muscle Cars

I am back from Kentucky... it was a trip of national parks full of caves and history, some interesting oddities and the National Corvette Museum.  Science, History, and America's Great Sports Car, its an eclectic mix for sure.  I can't say I got bored.  It was a feast for the mind; geology lessons were everywhere (even in the Corvette Museum) and Lincoln's past was part of the area's identity.  It was a feast for the eyes; the topography is gorgeous, filled with rolling green lush mountains and interesting rock formations.  And it was a challenge for the ears; cave sounds are faint, but present and walks through the woods were filled with wind blown leaves and scurrying creatures busying themselves for the cold months ahead.  Not once did I lack for something to see or do. 

I have wanted to return to Kentucky for at least 10 years... it is such a pretty area.  As I make my way through the National Parks, Cave Country was a necessity.  Mammoth Caves is a behemoth ... its gigantic and its still being explored.  Already, it stands (expands) as the largest cave system in the world.  There are over 400 miles of explored cave in the park; the park service estimates that over 600 miles still exist unexplored (by man) still to come.  While you do not need to be a spelunker to see the caves today, you can sign up and help map new areas with special outings in the park service (experienced spelunkers only - this is not the cave to get your feet wet, literally).    Me?  I am not a cave crawler... now, I have bobbled my way through some caves through the years, but those were always pre-explored trails... maybe one day before my old dancer knees completely go out I will have to get down and grimy.  For now, I hike!  And hike I did!

I came here for the Caves and I was going to see them.  So, I signed up for the longest hike they offered through the system - a 4 mile trek that the parks called extremely strenuous!  Yikes! And only 4 miles - how was that a possible designation?  I have been on hikes that that parks called strenuous before and survived them all (some better than others), but "extremely strenuous"?  What was that?  And earlier this year, I was on a hike in Cornado that was painful, and yet that was marked moderate (realized much later that I was at elevation - oops).  I worked myself up about this hike.  And once I arrived to sign in, I had a ranger suggest that I sign up for another limited opportunity at Great Oynx Cave (within the park).  "I was here for the caves"... I kept repeating that mantra in my head as the pre-cave lecture told us over and over again that we could die in the cave.  Again, just what as I doing?  The ranger spoke of over 700 stairs and steep incline, of tight passages and no way out after mile 1.  AGHHHH.  And then we got in there and going... and it was fine.  I was fine.  It was not a killer trail.  It was just one NOT for people that do not get outside.  It was not for people that do not move.  It was not for people with claustrophobia.  Yes, there were lots of stairs and plenty of switchbacks, but we rested after each steep assent.  No big deal... but I could see how it would be, because if you got hurt or overestimated your abilities, it would take you hours to get help.  And that is a YIKES!

Gypsum Flowers

Cave Cricket!

Inside the cave, I will be honest, is not the prettiest cave system you have seen.  This is not famous for its formations (there are some)... it is famous for its size.  We stood in one cavern that was over 900 feet tall.  We saw a few great formations... but for me, the coolest cave feature was the gypsum formations.  Sadly, the overwhelming majority of them had been poached from the cave walls well before the site became a national park, but there were a few around to see.  Many formations looked like delicate flowers, some more like spindly flowers and there was one room with a popcorn ceiling full of the element.  You would think museums all over would have specimens of this cool formation - NOPE!  Gypsum is highly sensitive.  The cave environment is stagnant... once outside, changes in temperature and humidity could lead to them to "melt".  Just leave the cool stuff in the cave people!  And that goes for the amazing cave creatures that evolved to live in this completely dark environment.  On our tour, we learned we could not go down to the river since there were species unique to the cave (i.e. the only ones anywhere); eyeless shrimp and fish that were also translucent.  On the trails, we saw some cave crickets that looks like something out of a scifi movie when then mated with daddy-long-legs, and some spiders.  No bats!  The bat population at Mammoth has been decimated from White Nose Fungus... Don't carry those spores around people - wash your shoes.  And the park made sure we did after each cave entry - walking us down a Woolite filled pathway.  White Nose is nasty; it suffocated the bats, covering their airways with a fungus. And while there are reports on successful ways to cure infected bats, the question remains in just "how to administer to them" in the wild; you could take at more than the fungus.  It's a sad conundrum. 

I needed clean shoes for the rest of my trip... because although White Nose is present in Mammoth Cave - it is not in other locations, so you have to be diligent.  After my day hiking above and below ground at Mammoth, I was faced with the wrath of Mother Nature... she rained out my evening Ranger talk... and she wasn't done because her storms the night before did not die down; I woke up looking at a massive thunderstorm.  Ugh - it always rains on my trips, without fail.  I had planned my history excursion to go according to Lincoln's timeline... but "best laid plans."  A quick look on my weather apps told me I had a half day window to get up to Indiana and explore Lincoln's birthplace ... and off I went to see the place Lincoln grew up in.