Not Just Another Pretty Lake

The last time I was in Reno was about 15 years ago.  I didn't see much outside of the "biggest small city" mostly because I was speaking at a conference and did not have a car; I was dependent on others.  Someone promised me a trip to Lake Tahoe and it never happened.  I have remained bitter all these years ... finally that unfulfilled trip is checked off! 

A girlfriend was on detail in Reno and asked me if I wanted to visit... YES, absolutely!  Sign me up! How perfect was this opportunity? - I was going to see a friend, stay at her place, she would have a car AND I would get out of the casino zone.  And the biggest surprise?  The weather was gorgeous!  For 2 straight days, it was clear skies and no freak storms to ruin the trip.  Maybe Zeus, Hera (and the Theoi Meteoroi) are taking pity on me, finally. 

My trip to Reno marked the start of a crazy fall season.  I have 4 weekends in a row planned - Reno, Denver/Golden, Fort Lauderdale and New Jersey.  I did do this on purpose, it just all fell on top of each other - see friends, a concert, a baby shower.  Reno started me out just right.

My friend picked me up at the airport at midnight Friday, west coast time.  Already it was 3am on my clock BUT this was after a week of working the 4am shift at the hurricane desk, so I was drowning in exhaustion.  She drove me to a store to buy a toothbrush ...I was convinced I forgot one - (I did not).  We got to her cute temporary home and I crashed.  I don't remember much beyond her doggies smelling my sneaks (that I was sure smelled heinous). 

 

The next day, we headed out to a legendary Reno/Sparks breakfast at the Squeeze In.  Tessa had been name dropping this place since I planned the visit. This was the quirky "it" place to go.  And judging by the line we waited in, she was not wrong.  She put us on the waiting list before we even got there... but it did not matter, the line was HUGE.  After being locked away for work for weeks, I soaked up the sun and chuckled at the abundance of aliens all around (I now need to look up Reno's alien history because they obviously have one).  After waiting in a lengthy line, I was salivating for some yummy food.  The menu was overwhelming, but made the choices work for us.  We tried the famous pancakes, I had twice baked eggs and she had some benedict concoction, we shared fresh fruit, and we split a slice of the chocolate covered bacon.  I wasn't in love with the bacon, but the pancakes had me.  I would order more of those in a heart-beat.  Perfectly fluffy and full of sour dough flavor  Yum-Yum!

 

With full tummies, off we went through the mountains to see THE LAKE.  I was so excited.  And as we rounded a mountain road switchback and crested a hill, there it was... sparkling.  And HUGE!  I seriously did not have any idea what I was going to see.  Of course I have seen pictures, but pictures never do grandeur justice.  This was  one of those instances.  The lake is massive.  And it is BLUE.  Not kinda blue. Not a soft shade.  But Crayola Box Blue.  They need to name a color after it.  Tahoe Blue.  Make it a thing people!  We pulled off at a scenic overlook to take some pictures and to get the bird's eye view... and that is when I realized my camera's memory card was filled.  AGH! Photography 101 failed.  I was no stuck taking these grand pics on my iphone (until I realized I had plenty of room on the card if I deleted some duplicate or bad pics). So while my first overview shots of the lake were with a phone, I had plenty of time at this treasure with my camera. 

Lake Tahoe State Park - Nevada

First stop on our lake tour was the Lake Tahoe Visitor's Center  in Incline Village.  There we grabbed a bunch of pamphlets on hiking trails and boat tours, and I got my postcards (I swear I help keep the post office in business).  We then headed to Tahoe State Park.  There I was gobsmacked with the similarity to The Baths at the British Virgin Islands.  I swear, they look similar - the water, the boulders, the greenery.  It was awesome.  One BIG, I mean HUGE, difference was the water temperature.  I was able to stick my feet in Lake Tahoe.  I promise you, it is cold.  Frigid is more like it.  They say that it is about 70 degrees on the surface in the summer.  Below the thermal line, it is in the 40's. 

British Virgin Islands

The Baths National Park

Caribbean

I am not sure what it was when I stuck my feet in, but they were numb for a while.  I marveled once again at the young kids playing in the cold water with their purple lips... but I remember growing up in North Jersey taking swimming lessons in our lakes.  I swear kids just run hotter. 

British Virgin Islands

The Baths National Park

Caribbean

Tessa and I hung out at Sand Lake Beach for a while.  I walked through the water, playing with angles to with the camera.  I wanted to really get that blue.  But it wasn't just the blue, it was the crispness of the water.  It is so clear.  Incredibly clear.  Perfectly clear.  I wanted to understand why, so we headed to the state park science center to learn about the water.  We learned the water clarity does over 70 feet deep!  That the scale used to measure clarity was made because of Lake Tahoe - the Secchi Scale, a simple black and white disc lowered into the water until you can't see it.  Simple! 

After soaking up some sun, we wanted to walk a trail along the shore... And it was on this trail that you got to really see the clarity of the water.  Boulders sitting underneath the surface were perfectly visible.  The water's color changed slightly from the rocks.  And with the blue mountains in the background, the scenery was picture perfect.  So perfect that a wedding was out along the trail taking pictures.  They weren't bouldering along rock crevices, mind you, but I am sure that they will have an amazing photo album. 

We hopped back in the car and headed over to the California side of the Lake, to grab some food and check out King's Beach.  Word on the Street was that the leaves were changing right on the lake.  So, off we went to the long pier.  We watched a black lab beg for a Frisbee to be thrown into the water over and over.  We laughed at another pooch that was a fan of the lab as well - he had his own cheering section.  This dog could swim!  

 

We returned to the Lake the next day for more fun... This time we headed to the Southern end of the Lake.  We booked a tour on the water.  It was officially the end of the season and all the boats were taking on last horah.  Because the weather was so gorgeous, almost everything was sold out.  We got so lucky and found a spot on a happy hour cruise.  2 hours on the water. It was glorious.  It was here that I finally understood the saying Keep Tahoe Blue.   The water is so perfect that the Sierra Nevada's look blue as well.  The whole area takes on a blue hue. 

I ask why this area is not a national park.  I get the politics.  I get the history, but I still have to ask.  Isn't there a concern that development will ruin this?  State parks just are not big enough.  And that water clarity will disappear in a heart beat if erosion  on the banks ticks up... Tahoe is gorgeous because it is unspoiled beauty.  It might be an issue worth revisiting down the road. 

 

 

 

Two days In the Maryland Panhandle

When you think of states with panhandles, you can easily name Florida, Oklahoma, Texas, Idaho, but there is one much closer to home... Maryland.  I have never been into the Maryland panhandle - it is close, but not too close...a 3.5 hour drive.  It warrants some planning.  And after my best friend suggested I check out Deep Creek Lake, on the western edge of the panhandle months ago, its been on my list. 




Enter a Labor Day that happened upon us way too quickly and I did not have anything planned.  The weather was cold and stormy on Saturday but it was supposed to clear up.  We did not want to let that last bit of summer slip by.  We had to do something.  After some quick googling, I found a last minute room for a great rate in Deep Creek for Sunday night... our short road trip was planned.  We would figure things out along the way, and knew there was bound to be enough to keep us occupied for a 2 days... and we were right.


I texted my best friend Lesley to tell her I was finally going and she got back to me immediately with ideas from a friend.  She may run a successful website on the Pacific NW but she has contacts everywhere.  Her friend gave us ideas for all kinds of food & drink and many activities.  We were only going to be there for 2 days and I wanted to make the most of our time.  A local is always a great resource - ones you know, or ones you befriend along the way! 


Deep Creek Lake is not the kind of lake community I grew up visiting in northern New Jersey.  What we saw as soon as we got there looked more akin many fancy shore communities with houses on the water trying desperately to be bigger and grander than the next.  There was development all over the lake.  In fact the only public access to the water is through the state park - Deep Creek Lake State Park.  We drove past homes with secondary homes (the mother-in-law house) and found out way through winding roads to get to the lake.  Outside on the water, my stubborn streak prevailed as we walked on the beach and jetties, dipped toes in the cold waters and braved the winds on this day in the mid 50's!  Summer was obviously lost (Persephone must have went back to Hades early)... but the sun was out.  We stayed for a few hours to enjoy the reflections and pretend we went to the beach over labor day.  After we had enough, we headed indoors to the Nature Center to learn about the lake's ecology (I learned a new term for the lake's water cycle - the thermocline is the barrier between the upper and lower water layers that facilitates turnover)!


After giving up we headed to a late lunch/early dinner at Mountain State Brewery... on my list of places to check out from my friend's friend, we were optimistic.  Driving away from the lake and into the rolling fills of farms, we found the small, and incredibly busy, brewery wafting smells of food into the parking area.  This rustic local favorite was practically full at 4pm - a great sign.  Our waitress helped up pick out an unique pizza of Thai chicken and John got himself a flight of their specialties.  We chowed down on a gigantic medium pizza and decided dinner was not needed (damn was that a big pie).  Everything was yummy (and warm) in this joint and we defrosted enough to venture out again.


Where did we go now... well to the ski resort, of course.  The Wisp was bustling with people, and we know something was going on!  That something was FUN.  They had an adventure course set up for kids and other for adults.  There was a toboggan ride down the slopes and you could ride the ski lift up to come down the mountain yourself (leg-power).  We settled on tickets for the toboggan cuz, hello, it was a roller coaster you could control yourself.  Yep!  You were put in a toboggan, and pulled up the mountain... and then when you were released on the tracks, you had the ability to control your own speed!  WOOHOO.  I hooted and hollered like a kid and let my yellow ride fly... well I did until I saw signs asking us to break around some turns.  When we both disembarked, we were ready to go again! 


After we left the Wisp, we checked into our hotel (there was a reason we got a room so late in the game - ick) and headed out for a rematch on the miniature golf course.  What happens when 2 competitive people play a silly game of mini-golf.... well, putts are taken seriously and I get to say I WIN!  HA!  A hole in one baby!  The course was a blast with truly unique water features you had to play through and some serious usage of hills.  Afterwards, we headed to the arcade for a wall sized version of Space Invaders (with different rules from my Atari version).  We bounced from air hockey to ski-ball to silly guessing games and gifted random kids in the arcade our tickets won... we did not need an eraser, and we made some people smile.  Who says you have to grow up?  (I am still a Toys R Us kid at heart).


After this mad-Karate Kid styled date, we headed to the Deep Creek Creamery - the hottest ticket in town.  Because even though the temperatures never got above 55 degrees, the line for ice cream was literally down the street.  We stood in line, talked to locals and got some creamy goodness that we ate while overlooking a full moon over the lake.  It was a beautiful scene. 


The next morning, Demeter (ye, I do love throwing in the Greek Gods) decided that we could have some warmer weather... and we were able to get on the water... finally.  We booked a lake tour on a pontoon.  And I was stuck singing that Little Big  Town song all day because of it.  With an afternoon tour planned, we headed out for a downhome local breakfast.... and according to our list, Sandy's was where we wanted to be.  So we drove past the sprawling lake looking for the local dive... eventually we found the rehabbed gas station, that was home to this local fav.  We ate at the counter and marveled with the crowds. Everyone ordered a cinnamon bun, so who were we to say no- splitting it was almost not fair - warm and gooey.  For our meals, we discovered the blueberry pancakes were the way to go.  Full, we headed back to the lake. 


After lollygagging for almost 2 hours (we were early and there is not much to do in the area) we finally made our way onto the Pontoon.  And on the water for almost an hour and a half was the highlight of the trip.  The day was warm, the sun was out and our guide was a local whom was relocating the next day... he waxed nostalgic as he toured the lake.  We explored some of his favorite spots, visiting secluded arms of this amoebous lake and insanely elaborate mansions. The tour gave us a better appreciation of the grandeur of the lake.  It is large!  In fact , the lake covers 3900 acres - making it the largest lake in Maryland .  It is called Deep Creek Lake, not for being the deepest in Maryland ( it's deepest point is only 75 feet near the dam), but for the name of one of its feeding sources.  The lake gets its water from a series of creeks in the area - no major river, no underground water source.  Deep Creek can get cold - ice goes 18 inches down in the right conditions.  The lake was created in 1925 by the Youghiogheny Electric Company, bought by Pennsylvania Electric in 1942 and is now owned by Maryland!

After our tour, our guide gave us a great recommendation for a deli - we grabbed sandwiches and headed out to Swallow Falls State Park.   Another of my friend friend's great recommendations.  Swallow Falls is said to be one of the prettiest state parks in Maryland. Just about every person we spoke to told us not to miss it, so we knew we were in for a treat.  Once in the park, we sat in the giant gazebo to eat our delicious sandwiches and fuel up... camera at the ready, I was hopping for adventure.  The trail loop to 4 falls was under 2 miles.  You could add to the mileage by taking arms off the main line to get closer or different perspectives.  My camera was busy photographing the  water falling over bridal veils, cascades, and horsetail falls.  I pointed out basic geology to John - each time we go out he gets science lessons - this time in erosion and stratification.  (I need to whip out the old college texts soon and brush up on some lessons myself).  The forest around the falls is hemlock... I am familiar with Hemlock forests, as I grew up near large ones in NJ... The forest was badly damaged by Superstorm Sandy, and it provided a great way to point out forest regeneration. Hemlock forests are unique in that they create their own mini-climates... they can lower the standing temperatures up to 10 degrees - so often you see flora in the area unlike any other.  Hemlocks and their shallow roots also help to keep the air moist... the area is ripe for fungus, mushrooms, lichens and mosses.  And all over we spotted some amazing shrooms.  They had plenty to do, breaking down trees felled by the storm.   Plenty of locals on the trail told us that the falls were low, but it didn't matter - the hike and the forest were wonderful.  Nature can take your breathe away if your let her!

After the hike and science lessons it was time to head back to DC.  On the way home, we took the scenic route through West Virginia (we were so close), and were treated to a sherbet colored sunset over the valleys between the Appalachian Mountains and views of wind farms stirring in the steady winds persistent through the area. 

With a trip full of beauty and fun, we will be sure to keep this place on our list for local get-aways when I need to see something more than traffic jams. 

The Beginning of An Epic Adventure in the Pacific NW

My annual trip out the Pacific Northwest was a bit early this year.  If you plan on visiting the San Juan Islands with your best friend, you have to make the summer venture.  Who wants to visit an island in the northern most corner of the Pacific Northwest when the temperatures start to drop – not I!

We started talking about this venture on the way home from last year’s girls trip to Victoria… and, again, I left the planning to her.  Lesley runs an amazing website for information on NW events, locales, and general fun.  WhatsupNW.com has really exploded and places we go are excited for her to visit and to be featured on the site.  That means, she has all in the “ins”.  I am just along for the ride – I get to help her interview amazing people in various fields, and we have a blast together.  Honestly, her moving sucked, but we make our visits count.  She travels like I do on solo trips – packing in much in as possible… so together, we power-tour and document for her site, take tons of pictures and soak in as much as humanly possible.

For once the weather was going to be perfect.  There was minimal rain in the forecast.  I was itching for a vacation.  And then I got sick.  I am not talking a little summer cold either.  By the time I landed at SeaTac, I felt like I wanted to crawl into a ball and sleep for a week.  I had no energy, I spike a fever 2 nights before, my nose would not stop leaking, and I was a sneezing mess.  I looked and felt great to see my gorgeous best friend (Jersey sarcasm).    She picked me up; I took some Nyquil and had to apologize to her doggies that are used to me rolling around to play with them on visits.  She let me sleep the first day before she and her husband took me to the small town of Leavenworth.  This place is in the south-central Cascades and completely Bavarian themed.  We walked the streets, and I stopped at a few adorable shops looking at things that caught my eye.  Outside town we stopped at the river dam to walk the salmon ladder and watch some fish jump their way through the waters (and a kayaker navigate the falls) and then headed to a state park to take in a gorgeous lake and mountain views.

The next day, we had a girl’s day with some of her friends (and mine) in Seattle.  Lesley was invited to the VIP rooftop lounge at the Hard Rock.  I rallied and we headed towards Pike’s Market.  The lounge over looked the market!  Incredible space!  We had a blast, eating lunch, grooving to music and playing with beach balls… and it’s all fun before someone gets hurt.  And our story ended not with someone getting hurt, but someone’s expensive bag getting doused in beer.  She was fantastically nice about the whole thing and the staff moved quickly to clean everything up.  We took our own ball away and went back to couch dancing.

After a few hours at the Hard Rock, we walked through Pike’s Market.  I love the market – the colors, the venders, the hassle and the flying fish.  So much to see… more so after the latest expansion.  From the market we played the largest game of Pac-Man ever… it was seriously wall-sized.  And wandered into Gum Wall alley.  Ewwww is the right word here.  It is colorful and uniquely Seattle, and as long as you don’t overthink it, it can be amazingly neat to look at.  Some people just stick some gum on the wall, others make something with it… me?  Andrea and I pooled our gum and made a peace sign… we can all use more of that sentiment today with the situation in North Korea looming out there.

We had an early evening because the real trip was kicking in (and man was I still sick).  We hit the road by 5:30am to make the drive to the port.  This was Lesley’s first trip on an auto-ferry and she was not messing around.  So, we made it to port by 7:30 and were on the water by 9am.  The ride over was seriously cold (this is the northern Pacific NW) and stunningly gorgeous.  The waters were calm, since they are protected by Vancouver Island.  Smooth sailing, clear skies and fantastic scenery meant we were docking in Friday Harbor in no time.   Bucket List trip… here I come.

History, High School and Victorian Bathhouses



On the hiking trail in
Hot Springs National Park

Did you know that this year marked the centennial of the National Park Service?  Do you know how many national parks there are?[i]  How about total elements in the Park Service?[ii]  I do, and I am on a mission.  If you have read any of my musings, you know that I LOVE getting outside and enjoying these bits of natural treasure.  I wanted to make sure I celebrated the Park’s Birthday by visiting a few new places… I wanted to up my park number a bit.    At the same time, my boyfriend wanted to join me on one of my park visits.  He was new to this type of trip-quest.  He wanted to see what I saw and enjoy the beauty and the history, yet he is not a hiker.  (Heck, I have not got out enough the last few years).  So looking over the list of parks, I decided the perfect spot was Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas. 

I have been to Arkansas only one time before, and it was a side trip off a trip in Texas.  On that Arkansas visit, I focused on the southwest quadrant of the state – visiting Hope (Clinton’s birthplace) and the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Murfreesboro.   I wasn’t that far from Hot Springs the first time, but I just ran out of time.   That heat while in the park, in June, was awful and wiped me out.  But I also was gobsmacked, Arkansas was beautiful.  It was nothing like I pictured in my head as a flat dead brown land– instead I saw beautiful waterways, rolling hills and plenty of green.  So a special trip to Hot Springs in late autumn sounded like a good plan.



To get there, we flew to into Little Rock.  For a three day trip, I planned to spend 1 full day in the capital city and a day and a half in the resort town.  We had a plan, and we needed one if we were going to fit all of it in.  I fully admit that I have in intense pace when I am power touring, and that is not for everyone.  I have gone easy on prior trips with my partner, but he was warned that we had a mission.  So, from the moment we stepped off the plane until the moment we got back to the airport, we were cooking.  It was funny (for me).  I think he is still tired from the experience!

Walls of plates at the Flying Saucer

Our first stop, once we got off the plane, was the Flying Saucer for a late meal and relaxation.  This place came highly recommended from some plane seat neighbors, who told me it was an eclectic “must- see” locale that was casual, open late and in a great area of the city that we could not miss.  So, we headed straight to the UFO pub for some grub.  Immediately upon entering, you notice that the walls are lined with plates – those cheesy decorative plates.  And they are from all over the place.  We were seated in front of a HUGE big screen television showing the game, and I could not stop scanning the walls looking at all the places the plates illustrated.   Mixed in, and on the ceiling, were color ringed plates with names – and this was where their “wall of fame” was enshrined.  The Flying Saucer is known in Little Rock for its beer list - Over 200 kinds.  And if you register, and finish the list (NOT in one setting, but many), you are immortalized on a plate.  So, as we chowed down on loaded tots and an arugula and prosciutto pizza, I read crazy plate sayings.  This place is a trip.  And it has spunk – it was that perfect casual meal in a place with character. 

Junction Bridge

After food and drinks, we headed to the waterfront to walk over Junction Bridge, mosey down some pathways and settle our food.  We were lucky it was a gorgeous evening.   For once (in a blue moon) the weather cooperated with me and the sky was clear.  So we were able to walk across the river to take in our first real views on downtown Little Rock.   Thanks to historical preservationists and green space planners, efforts to keep bridges over the River standing and make them pedestrian accessible, have been a huge hit. This area was one spot everyone told us to visit when hearing about our weekend adventure in Arkansas.  The three bridges over the Arkansas River are one of the most iconic views in the city.  Postcards are littered with these views...Especially at night when their colors play on the waters.  Wandering the pathways to look at the sculpture art by the river was another story.  We did not see much outside of the pavilion and one of the main things I left on the table in Little Rock was finding the “Little Rock” that the city was named for… it was down that path somewhere. 

Little Rock Skyline
from the Clinton Library

The next day began our power tour of Little Rock.  We needed clockwork precision to make this all work.  I wanted to fit in 3 museums, a park, a distillery and a damn bridge before we headed to Hot Springs that evening.  I am a bit ambitious, I admit. 

Art Deco in abundance at
Little Rock Central

To meet our goals, we made sure we were at the Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site the moment it opened.  You can’t come to Little Rock without seeing this bit of civil rights history.  We arrived before it opened and I was able to beg our way into the first tour of the day. (Note for future visitors, make a reservation)  The fantastic ranger walked us through the history of the Little Rock Nine – beyond anything we learned in our few paragraphs in a school text book.  Sitting in the visitor center, we spoke as a group discussing the doctrine of “separate but equal” and what it meant here; uncovering nasty truths of

This HS remains state of the art

how city and state leaders conspired to ensure that students would not integrate even after the Brown vs Board of Education ruling (ruling that separate was not equal), and then hearing the accounts of everything these children and their families endured just so they could attend the best public high school in the city.  Did you know that city leaders actually shut school down for a year?  No, neither did I.  They fail to mention that in the textbooks.  And just when you thought the city had reached a low, we walked through the Little Rock 10 (yep, it started as 10)’s walk to school.  The experience was enough to make you cry, feel disgusted  and be fighting mad at the same time.  You can’t visit this place without being inspired by the bravery of these students.  I am in awe – pure awe.  It touched me deeply. 

As American as Baseball and Apple Pie

Cooperstown has been on my bucket list for years.  I always thought it would be a cool place to take my brother.  I thought it was the perfect idea.  I looked into it ... a lot.  But my brother was more into ice hockey than anything else, so this trip was just hanging out there.  And there it sat, as a place on a list of "Weekend Trip Ideas."  I revisited that list every so often and kept putting it off.  It wasn't really a trip I thought I would enjoy on my own and it wasn't one for a "quick get away".  Cooperstown is roughly 6 1/2 hours from DC, which meant I needed at least 4 days to do this trip and see all that there was to see.  Because, once you look into it, Cooperstown is more than the Baseball Hall of Fame.  Finally, this summer, the stars aligned and I was able to finally see this bit of sports history (and so much more).

Honestly though, who are you kidding, you know you are going to Cooperstown for the Hall of Fame.  This is the place that chronicles our national pastime.  It preserves over 200 years of baseball history.  I have heard great things about the museum, and like everyone else, got a glimpse of it from the best sports movie of all time, A League of Their Own (and I say that only slightly as an exaggeration - this movie is a perfect classic). I wanted to visit to see that exhibit itself.  I love baseball, so I was looking forward to seeing some baseball history.   I expected the museum to be filled with facts, figures and tons of baseball stats.  In short, I expected it to be a gigantic baseball card.  And, I could not have been more wrong. 

Babe Ruth

 It was a tribute "For the Love of the Game." We spent an entire day exploring, learning, laughing and playing. It is just an amazing place clearly built with love, respect and admiration of the game and for its place in our culture.  There was deep baseball history, looking back to the storied baseball clubs in New York.  You could learn of the evolutions of rules.  You saw how baseball moved from recreation to sport and understood its place in American History.  It did not shy away from the ugly; there was whole sections on the racial divide (we learned that baseball was integrated before it was segregated). Those that have transcended time had their own sections - Ruth and Aaron!  The Women in Baseball section honored not just those that played in the Women's League, AAGPBL, but notes accomplishments of women breaking barriers on the field in softball and baseball, and in management (and yes, you can see a Rockford Peach and Racine Bell's uniform).  And Latin America's passion for the game was celebrated  in "Viva Baseball." 



Mike Piazza 2016 inductee
Let's Go METS!

Throughout the museum there were interactive opportunities to keep tech-addicted fingers busy... touch screen monitors hosted quizzes and took surveys, wall-sized monitors played many baseball highlights and in one room you could sit and watch "Who's on First" in totality.  There was section that spoke to kids directly, "The Sandlot", that quizzed you of the importance of exercise, commitment, ethics and staying drug free.  If you needed to step back and relax, the theatre was a great place to watch movie clips, and the "Scribes and Mikemen" section celebrated the legacy of our announcers.  And because baseball transcends sports, there was a fine art section showing how baseball has soaked its way into all that represents us. 

Inside the museum, on the first floor are the hallowed halls of the Hall of Fame.  After meandering our way through 3 floors of baseball storytelling, this was honestly a let down.  After all, how much dolling up can you do to a sectioned atrium with alcoves of bronze plaques.  To find the greats you wanted to see you could meander around the decades (of induction, not play time), or consult the wall charts. 

This does not look like
Ken Griffey Jr!

The plaques capture the likeness of the inductee (or tried to - see poor Ken Griffey Jr) and provide a brief bio for why they were worthy.  What I learned quickly is that the museum and the hall are two very distinct places.  You find Pete Rose all over the museum, but he is still not in the hall of fame; likewise Mark McGuire and Sammy Sosa are given rightful credit for saving baseball post-strike for their electric home run competition, but they will never be in the Hall.  For all the talk baseball does of reaching across the gender divide, and for near universal recognition that Dottie Schroeder has of being one of the best, the Hall only lists one female (an executive) on its walls. Baseball has struggled with how to reconcile rule breakers and gender barriers.  In my eyes, the 2 portions of the facility need to have a reckoning...

 

There is more to Cooperstown and the surrounding area than just the Hall of Fame.  If you can force yourself to leave the building, you can walk 2 blocks to one of the most pristine lakes in the entire country, Lake Otsego.  A glacial lake, it is surrounded my mountains and dense, thick forest.  There are only a few public access points for the lake, but you need to find one and get out there.  You can take the Glimmerglass Queen out on the water for a 1 hour easy ride out to about the middle of the lake; stay outside, because not only are the views simply spectacular and the air fresh, but the boat is not air-conditioned.  You can also take some kayaks (our choice), canoes, or paddle boards out, giving you a more personal connection to the water.  Here you can look at the water at eye level, catch some fish jumping out of the water at random moments (no carp in this lake), or some birds soaring around.  We were only out on the kayaks for an hour, I could have done that for much longer...

sadly we were only able to get on the water for a short while because mother nature continues her vacation torture plan - such extreme storms settled over the area for our trip, its a wonder we got on the water at all.  While on the Glimmerglass Queen, we were soaked as a storm barreling down the lake overtook us on the return (and we walked blocks to our car in it); driving around we were constantly rerouted for downed/lightening struck trees.  It was unfortunate since we both wanted me water time... alas, we promise another time.  Maybe I can bribe Mother Nature?!?!?

Lakes, Lake and More Lakes (and the Mississippi River)

I learned a really interesting fact about Minnesota while visiting Itasca State Park - the 10,000 lakes cover 5600 square miles, which means that there is 1 square mile of water for every 15 square miles of land. Indeed, water was everywhere in Minnesota, especially the northern 2/3rds of the state. Every day in the state incorporated water in one way or another - the Great Lake, smaller lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and even rain... it was a wet trip.

My days were so packed, I don't know how I could have seen anymore. I went into this trip planning to visit Voyageurs, the national park that shares boundary waters with Canada. I had hopes of driving up the Lake Superior coast line to learn what Grand Portage National Monument was all about. I had taken note of the headwaters on the Mississippi. And I knew I had to make one trip to southern Minnesota to visit Pipestone. What wasn't planned for was when I made constant detours to see things that were recommended or that I heard about on the way. Because while I was planning, I definitely did not hear about a few of these state parks, the bear sanctuary or Betty's Pies.

While planning my Minnesota trip, I had a few people tell me to skip the southern region. But in reading about Pipestone, I knew that it would be worth the 3 hour drive from Minneapolis. It is a place of spiritual importance to the Native Americans, specifically the Plains Indians. It is a place of peace, tranquility and of geologic importance. Taken directly from the name, the monument preserves the quarry lands of ceremonial pipestone (under layers and layers of quartzite). What I didn't realize was that this park also preserves the last 1% of tall grass prairie! And as you take the hike around a portion of the prairie and along the quartzite wall, you get a small sense of the serenity of the area. Winnewissa Falls roars and native elders faces are found in the stone walls (the Oracle and Old Stone Face). The falls stream down and into Winnewissa pond; song birds of brilliant colors fly around. If my cell phone had service, I would have been on my ornithology app, looking up all kinds of finches, because they were there in blue, greens, yellows, reds - colors reserved for tropical birds. Although I am not a birder by any stretch of the imagination, I was super excited to see some mud nests of the swallow (and the birds flying in and out). I understand that they are considered pests in residential communities of the area, but that it's just not a common site in DC!

My post North Dakota leg of my trip began with a visit to Itasca State Park. The park is beautiful - Itasca Lake is stunning. I wished I could have spent more time there then the 3 1/2 hours I did. I just wanted to walk in these woods along the water. I wanted to listen to the woodpeckers a bit longer (they always make me smile). I wanted to hear more cries from the loon. AND, I also wanted to swim in the Mississippi River. It was soooooooo clean. Frolicking in the waters flashed me back to growing up on the Musconetcong River and swimming in a small area near our home. I grew up with cold fresh water at my finger tips and I just wanted to dive in, cold be damned. It was amazing. Having seen the Mississippi River as it travels through many states, its Headwaters make it almost unrecognizable. It is so clean you can drink it (literally, there is a sign). You can wade in it and see your feet. You can just enjoy it as small fish swim past your toes and birds dip down for a drink. And as I walked across the river (just to say I did), I marveled that this tiny stream was the same body of water that that winds its way into New Orleans and into the Gulf of Mexico (that is to say that tiny stream plus 15,000 miles of waterway over 100 tributaries, traveling through 10 states, and draining from 31 states and 2 providences in Canada)!

I saw more than birds in Minnesota (and zoo animals), but birds tend to be prevalent where there is water. So I saw plenty of geese, cormorants, heron, ducks and even a few swans. By far the coolest water fowl siting I had was in Voyageurs National Park with the white pelican. Not only did it give me one of my favorite pictures of the entire trip, but it was my marker for my favorite day of the entire trip. I was lucky enough to have a guide to take me out on the water. Out of Arrowhead Lodge, Larry became by Voyageurs interpreter. He let me join a family from Iowa (thanks Patty!), on a tour of the key park sites off Lake Kabetogama. Boating around over 50 nautical miles, Larry kept Patty and I entertained with fun facts about the area and stories of living there in the frigid winters. We started out at Hoist Bay, where we visited what looked like a smaller version of camp but was in fact a summer get away for Midwestern families that would pack up and move to the lake for the summer. The story of the ice house truly drove home how ingenious families where that worked the area all year. I am way too modern of a person to picture life where you cut ice from the deeply frozen lake and store it for a year to keep your perishables from decaying. Larry then taught us about lake levels - the area's prime industries are logging and tourism. And in the past, the lake was used to transport logs to town... so, lake levels were controlled by 2 damns at Kettle Falls; today those damns are used to control water levels as the resorts and lakeside town does not flood. Kettle Falls also has an historic lodge rich with "fun" history of bootlegging, mob ties and as a bordello. And all of that makes sense when you think about the money in logging, the men that would have gone up to clearcut the forests and what they would have been looking for after hours... Just like any other remote mining town. The last stop on the lake tour was at Ellsworth Rock Garden - an amazing site that just makes you scratch your head and ask "why?". Here, in the middle of nowhere, Mr Ellsworth spent his days creating a sizable rock garden with cascading flowers... the rock formations were like looking at clouds. What do you see there? And on our way back to the lodge, Larry took us past a bald eagle nest so large, I swear I could live in it... well, except for the fact that I don't think the eagles would take kindly to visitors as they barely tolerated us floating past them. I have never been given the evil eye by a bird before, but I think I can check that off my list now.

When we finally docked again, we have spent about 6 hours on the water. Can't complain about that. It was a beautiful day. I had a small tour of this gorgeous water park, one that I did not think was possible as it was "preseason." And I met some great people. Larry sent me on my way towards Pelican Lake and a bear sanctuary and with an itinerary for the next few days. (I need to write him to tell him I saw all his recommendations)! I stopped in the town of Orr and walked around their Marsh Walk hoping for a glimpse of some marshy predatory plants... pitcher plants, sundews - they are creepy but also cool to photograph (and cool examples of plant mutations). Alas, no carnivorous plants, but I did get to see a few more woodpeckers, feed a few mosquitoes and take a few pictures that look like they belong in the Swamp Thing. And after wasting enough time, I headed to the bear area (it opened late). I am still not positive how I feel about this facility... yes, it is cool to see black bears up close, while being safe on platforms. And ye, I got to see babies climb trees while their mom fed. But that was the problem, this whole place existed because someone fed the bears pancakes regularly for years. The nonprofit came into existence because they can't stop after this guy's death. So now, they have better feeding practices than sourdough pancakes and they use the opportunity for study and research. Fun to see if I shut off my ecology brain for a while.

After bidding Patty and her family adieu (yes, I saw them at the bear facility too), I hit the road for Duluth. And it was then that I had the wildlife moment I had been missing forever - I saw my first wolf!!!! It happened in less then 5 seconds. It saw me, looked at me, turned its back and trotted away... but holy crap, my first wolf. In all my years in Alaska, I never saw one. In my week in Yellowstone, never saw one (heard them). In all my trips to Wyoming, nothing... yet here in Minnesota, I get one. And I didn't even have to visit Isle Royale for it to happen.

With 2 days in Duluth, I had time to explore. And I did A LOT! It was the end of my trip and there was still so much to see on the coast. I immediately took off running my first day, and I needed to run because that Lake Superior weather effect kicked in and the temperature dropped at least 40 degrees and the Scooby-doo fog rolled in. Brrrr! I headed to the Art Museum on the University of Minnesota campus. Was greeted by Cyrano de Bergerac and wandered the museum looking at great pottery and landscapes by Gilbert Munger (if you don't know him, look him up). They had a whole collection of them - at least 15 were out... they are almost as good as being there... but I had "there" to visit. So it was up the coastal highway for me.


I stopped by Gooseberry Falls. Partly to keep warm, partly to see the falls, and partly because I love to - I hiked the falls loop to see the three tiers, the splash zones and the washout areas. The falls are beautiful and this state park is easily accessible for anyone that wants to see a 3 tiered cascading waterfall. The highway bridge adds an arch at the top of it... just stunning. Hopping in and out of my car, I get out again at Split Rock Lighthouse. Built on a Cliffside over 100 feet above the water, the lighthouse marks the spot of tragedy -the Gales of November - boats crashed on the notoriously rocky Superior shoreline. And because Lake Superior is a beast (the largest, deepest, coldest Great Lake), this lighthouse also included a Fog House, where a horn would constantly blow during that "Scooby-doo" fog that were experienced that very day. The fog was so thick that it didn't make sense for me to hike down to the shore for the "view" up BUT it did mean I could continue north.

I was on a mission to get to Grand Portage but all these state parks were calling to me. The coast line was riddled with them. I took mental notes of places I wanted to stop, if I could, on the way back, and pushed through. Made it to the park only to discover that the main attraction there, the fur trading city, did not open until that weekend. Well, I was there, and I was going to learn what I could... The park movie and museum (and my trip to Voyageurs) taught me more about the fur trade then I ever learned in school. [There was this fantastic interactive exhibit that let your negotiate with a company man - was relieved to see my skills are still solid, I got a fair trade and fed my family - go me!!!] This park preserved the great trading town where Indians, company representatives, interpreters, and voyageurs would gather. Merriment was had, furs and goods were exchanged and it was all ruined by the boundary line battle in DC... once the line was redrawn, companies moved north a few miles to Canada and Grand Portage was history. I hiked a steep trail up the cliff to get a grand view of Grand Portage bay and the town... and with that you can see why this spot was chosen for so long. The bay provides protection from the rougher waters of the Lake and those views... wow.

Views continued when I drove the Canadian border to see the most beautiful waterfall outside of Niagara. Grand Portage State Park's High Falls is stunning. One waterfall, broken into 3 sections, like a braid... each section is different and pretty - together, I still swoon at the thought. After an easy hike, you get to stand in the mists, get soaked and just take it in. I don't know why this place does not get the notoriety of Gooseberry - it should. With the right combination of sun, mist, and wind, a huge rainbow forms over the river. Wow, just wow.

There was no way that I could top High Falls... and I didn't but I tried. On the way back to Duluth, I stopped by Cascade Falls State Park for another quick hike to see a punchbowl waterfall and for a beautiful view of the lake shore. By the time I made it to Schroeder, I was spent, so thank goodness the waterfall (a very rocky cascade) was literally on the side of the road.

This left me one full day in Duluth - good thing my hotel was near so much of what I wanted to see. I could see the Lift Bridge from my room, but up close was so much better. Quite honestly, the bridge is not that attractive until you see it "do its thing." The port of Duluth is extremely active and as boats come into the port, Lift Bridge literally lifts its road straight up. I was able to see it a few times from various angles as I meandered around Canal Park enjoying the fountains, the sculptures and the lighthouses. I walked over the bridge to visit city beach and dip my feet into Lake Superior (why, I don't know), and back again to hoof it to the Rose Garden (filled with tulips) and Leif Erikson Park. From there, I wandered the Great Lakes Aquarium, where I fed the trout, and got a lesson in the natural history of the area. Kudos to the facility for teaching visitors about their local surroundings - there is plenty to learn about the Great Lakes region and not everything can be about Nemo and Dory!

I finished by day with 2 foodies institutions - before I left the lake area, I stopped by Betty's Pies in Two Harbors because I was told that I "had to try one before I left." So I did- a Great Lakes Pie, full of berries - yum! Since I was up there, I quickly sopped by another lighthouse for one last bit of touristy goodness and was off to the big city in the pouring rain. After that drive back to Minneapolis, my New Kids concert Buddy took me out for a Juicy Lucy at 5*8 Club, because I "had to have one before I left." Apparently they have been on just about every foodie television show and contest found on the travel and food channels. Good burgers!


Minnesota is beautiful. After visiting, I can say I wish I would have visited sooner. I can't change that, but I can say I will be back. Those waters are calling! I will just have to pack the bug spray, hats, candles, eat tons of garlic before I visit and anything else that may work because I think I donated at least 2 pints of blood to those suckers. I feel better knowing I killed at least a million with my car as I drove around though - that rental car was gross and encrusted with bug corpses. Does that even things out?