(Continuing my San Juan Island Trip in July 2017)
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| Historical Society Topographical Interactive Map San Juan Island |
We hit the ground running Monday, starting with an interview with town/island leader, Barbara Marrett, over an amazing Breakfast. (Seriously, I am going to have to try and recreate the baked eggs in tomato we ate at Cynthia’s Bistro). We talked about island life, the tight knit community, and their ties to the orcas and the Salish Sea. It's hard to deny the beauty of the area that just draws you in, and her story reflected that pull. I have always been curious about small town island living and what brings people there, and she let us pepper her with questions about Friday Harbor's growth and laid back nature, the (sometimes) hassle of being cut off from the mainland, and her history that brought her to the island.
After our breakfast education we were handed off to another amazing town leader - the executive Director of the Whale Museum, Jenny Atkinson. She spoke to us for hours about the orcas and other whales that visit the Sound. Adding to what we learned the evening before from Maya's Legacy (whale watching tour), we were getting a crash course in the local ecosystem. She spoke passionately about the resident orca pod and how connected people on the island are to it. The reason the whale museum started naming the orca's was the fact that locals are able to identify so many since the people and orcas grow up together and these orcas are often found near the island coast line. Islanders are able to pinpoint births and deaths in the pod since they are such a regular site around the San Juans. Sadly, they numbers have plummeted. The Whale Museum mission is education everyone they can on the majesty of these mammals. After our talk, we were given a tour of the museum, and next thing we knew we were well past noon and well past the schedule that Lesley had made for us to maximize our time. So, after some purchases (I had to adopt a whale to support their mission), we headed out.
Before we left Friday Harbor and drove into the heart of the island, we wanted to stop by the Art Museum. Although we had planned for the Art Museum on Monday before our ferry, we found out it would be closed... quick schedule tweak and we made it. The museum is small! Really 2 main rooms. It was hosting an exhibit on native masks - masks from private collectors. Much of this stuff was never seen in public. And it was glorious. These pieces tell stories but the museum let them speak for themselves - you had to pull up piece information on your smart phone using your scanner! It was a smart way to show these pieces.
From there we headed straight to the lavender farm. Pelindaba Lavendar is located inland on the island, and you would think you were in a different zip code for how different the 621 square foot island looks from place to place. Here, we were in the mists of lightly rolling hills, a scattered lakes and ponds (one right across the street from the farm), and the relaxing smell of lavender wafting from the fields of purple.
The farm (parts of it) was accessible... we got to walk through the fields, smell the different types and watch busy bees with wonder. Inside the visitor center/store, we were temped by endless lavender options. Knowing that lavender really helps you relax and sleep, I wanted to get everything that they had... BUT being that I was still sick and my nose was now raw, chapped and flat out uncomfortable, I settled on the healing balm. I thought I could rub it on my Rudolf nose at night and it would serve 2 purposes (and it worked like a charm). And since we were again power-touring without food, we tried lavender ice cream, and decided we did not like it! (Too much lavender for my taste buds).
Now that we were covered in the smells of a lavender field (and no bee stings) we decided we needed to go to the state park - Lime Kilm. This State Park was a can't miss on the island not only for the views but for it famous orca viewing area and the work done there on orca pod vocalizations. The resident pod hangs out there ... well they hung out there when times were better; views were on steep decline this year. Lesley and I went for a small hike to the lighthouse to visit with the scientist that the Whale Museum told us about (he was a good hugger)... he confirmed what we had learned the pods numbers have been declining rapidly, salmon stocks have plummeted and the matriarch of the family passed away. She knew when salmon ran up certain rivers, she kept them fed. Since she passed away, there have been very few spottings of the pod. Researchers are curious which female will take over the leadership role and everyone is hoping they can overcome mounting odds against them. (If you are interested in learning more - you adopt a whale through the Whale Museum where that money goes to research and education and you receive updates a whale in the group). This pod is special to the area and since all pods are genetically (and behaviorally) distinct from each other, it is not possible that members of one pod to mate with another to "up" the numbers.
After walking on the gorgeous coast and another educational talk, we made a quick trip to another farm - the Alpaca Farm! We needed some cuteness to lighten up the day and alpacas fit that bill. Krystal Acres Alpaca Farm is an 80 acre farm in the interior of the island. Alpacas are perfect here. They produce as much fine fiber as a llama but are considerably smaller than their cousins (topping out around 150lbs). The farm is open for anyone to visit these cute critters and the store on site sells everything from alpaca wool/yarn, to finished products. Neither Lesley nor I purchased anything, though I was tempted by some adorable hats!
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By now we were thoroughly exhausted, and in need of sustenance... we headed back to our cubby-hole hotel room and changed for an evening of fine dining at Friday Harbor House. Lesley's contacts again gave us a short tour and overview of the new renovations. The have spent a lot of time expanding their patio and it showed... we were given a table with a fantastic view over the water and ate some scrumptious goodies - beet salad, halibut, and crazy yummy donuts. After lots of food and drink, we walked the docks and tied to visit with Popeye (the smoky eyed resident seal that hangs out at the fish market), but we missed her. Instead, we found her statue.
We weren't done with our day yet - we hopped in the car and headed to the other side of the island. We wanted to catch sunset at Roche Harbor, and it was glorious. This area was completely different than Friday Harbor. While the end we were staying on is quirky, the best way to describe Roche Harbor would be to say it reminded me of a fancy summer camp (or Celebration, FL if you have ever been there).
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| Historic Lime Kilms |
Everything looked the same, and it went beyond cookie-cutter. It was a clear uniform, regimented look. We later discovered why when we were told that Roche Harbor was a company town. A lime kilm company owned it and controlled everything that happened there, so they wanted to keep the historical feel. I get that, but that did not explain the summer camp feel to the flag ceremony we saw. That aside, HUGE yachts were anchored at this harbor. And when I say HUGE, I mean H-U-G-E! After sunset, Lesley and I were invited on one that was for sale. I am comfortable saying that this thing had more livable space that 2 of my condo's. We got to hob-nob for a bit and imagine what a mega-millions lotto win could bring either of us!
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| Add Cynthia's to your San Juan Island itinerary |
Our last day on the island came too quickly (3 days goes by fast). We woke up to head back to Cynthia's for breakfast again (seriously, this is a must eat place if your visit San Juan Island). And after some energy and vitamin C (I was still sick), we headed to the Historical Society of the San Juan Islands. Lesley had another interview and a private tour of the park planned. Here we learned on early life on the island, of the main opportunities to be had in the region - logging, farming, mining, to which mining for lime was the most prosperous. We learned about the different kinds of mining operations on the island, found near Lime Kiln State Park (more individual - rogue operation) vs Roche Harbor's company model.
After our historical tour we headed out to the second national park unit on the Island - English Camp. We walked the trail from the officer's quarters zone to the beach area where some of the original structures stand. After viewing both camps, it easy to see how the English Camp site was more ideal! The calm waters alone make it a safer, protected zone, but the woods and rich soil made for great farms and gardens. The British built structures for food storage, weapons, barracks, medical quarters, office quarters - it was a thought out little village. And they were known for their holiday celebrations - balls, meals, decorations, music - it's a tradition kept today.
Before we left this gorgeous island, we headed back to Roche Harbor to walk through the Local Park and Sculpture Garden. Here large pieces are submitted to a town panel for judgment and placed along the trails in the park in a rotation. (And for those willing - there is a reject section - Le Jardin des Refus’es; oddly a section I enjoyed the most). This means is that you will see new pieces of art each time you visit; and, if you have a large enough check book after you buy the yacht at the Harbor, the pieces are for sale - Names, gallery contacts all at the foot of the art!
Along the trails, Lesley and I spotted horses, whales, frogs and fish, pinwheels, organic structures, formal sculptures of people, totem poles,and fun whimsical things. There is something for anyone - sculptures for all sorts of art lovers, all sorts of opinions, all styles, all needs. Pick your meditation poison. Along the way, poems speaking to nature and art were interspersed to add to the inspiration and benches were scattered were around the pond for relaxation (or just for you to sit and read a book). If I lived here, I could see myself hanging out here a lot!
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| Lesley & I tried kissing a frog! |
After a day of parks, we had to rush back to the ferry - I had a plane back to DC that night, and we had a tight schedule. Big surprise, I know. After our trips together, we are pros at this! Can't wait to see what we cook up for the next trip! Love you Lesley!
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